I’m late to Scruffy Badger’s Polka Dot Frock New Look 6000 party!
And not even fashionably late; so very late as in everyone is well-pickled and all the nibbles are gone… Sorry, Winnie!
But here it is!
I can hear you… “Er… you’re late and it’s not even really very dotty, anyway…?!”
I know, I know, but I have got a nod in the right direction:
Hidden as seam binding!!
I have been coveting a navy cotton sateen polka dot NL6000 since seeing Tilly’s last year, and really really wanted to make my own, but it’s just not to be yet. Lack of dosh and a ridiculous stash of fabric means my first NL6000 is made out of this dark grey, plaid, speckly (can we call it dotty?!), lightweight poly-wool mix fabric. It has been residing in my stash box for at least six years… Six years?! It was only right to give it freedom and purpose!
Yes, I did say “my first NL6000″- there will be a next time! I have joined the love-in for this pattern. I really like it, though once again, it’s a commercial pattern with a massive amount of ease. Why always so much? I suppose it gives room for error/fitting, but it also ends up eating fabric it really doesn’t need to. I laid my sloper over the pattern, and could see that somehow they’ve even drawn the pattern so I could manage to avoid an FBA! Just had to add a couple of inches to the skirt length, and curve the centre back neck in, as I usually have to.
I fitted the sleeves flat, as per my usual, but this time tried out Lin B’s tip to leave the last inch unsewn, do the side seams, then finish the armscye in the round to make it all sit pretty. Really like this slight adjustment to my usual way of doing it!
I had a fight with the collar, and I was very grateful for Ese-Jane (my dressform), as I just couldn’t get my head around the collar instructions, and so found it quite a pickle to put in flat, but once the dress was on her shoulders, it was so much easier to visualise the end result and pin. Yes, I needed pins on this project! I usually try to avoid…
The collars aren’t overlapping much at the front. I think somehow reducing the CB on the back of the collar to match the CB reduction on the dress has unexpectedly reduced the overlap at the front?
I popped in an invisible zip, and tried the technique that Jo pointed me in the direction of when I made my NL6094 and was unhappy about the gaposis.
Briefly, the technique involves leaving the tape above the zip stop unsewn. Flip it into the seam allowance (I tacked it down out of the way there). Then I flipped the facing over the zip, sewed close to the teeth and turned right side out.
Now as you can see in the photo, I left a gap between the zip stop and the collar seam. This was in the instructions, but I left too big a gap, and so I still ended up with the zip still not at the top as I wanted it! Bah!
But once I’d fought the collar and the facings, I just couldn’t be doing with re-aligning it all…
That little unhappiness aside, this technique is genius! The corner is so much more malleable: it’s softer and yet has more definition. Next time it is going to do what I want it to, I’m sure of it! I’ve reverse-engineered some RTW with invisible zips and this flipping-out-of-the-way technique is the way they do it, so I’m going to crack it; I just know it!
I wasn’t sure about how the collar was laying at the back, I figured it would be straight down the side of the CB (it is on the pattern line drawing), and so I thought it had gone wrong with my adjustments due to the CB curvature, but a quick google shows everyone else’s also put the back collar points somewhere in the centre of the shoulder blades…
Next time I might try to draft a collar that sits more to the CB. But don’t hold me to that, as it might just be an overstretch of my drafting skills..!
I wasn’t so keen with the way the instructions suggest adding the cuffs to the sleeves- the edges of the cuffs under the foldback are left raw, although the pattern instructions suggest zig-zagging as a “professional finish”?! Pfft… Professional should surely be totally sandwiched in, and hidden away? (This would also solve the sleeve seams issue, where they’re exposed if you raise your arm!) But, I jumped at the opportunity to add a little more polka dot delight:
I just bound the raw seam with some of the polka dot ribbon, and then handstitched the joining point together to hide the dots!
All hidden away!
Pink buttons out of my button box to lift the dress from the possibility of looking maudlin, and ta-da! A not very dotty new dress!
Pattern instructions aside, I love this dress! There will be more…